| Furs come in a variety of types and styles. There are long-haired furs, knobbly astrakhans, printed stripes and spots, as well as medium pile fabrics dyed in plain colours, such as teddy bear orange. |
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Different qualities are available for making into garments and for soft toys. As most fake furs are made from synthetic fibres, they are considerably less expensive than natural furs. They are also machine washable.
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Choosing a pattern
Any garment that can be made of real fur can be made from Synthetic fur. Choose patterns that are plain with simply style lines to avoid bulking. Details such as darts, pleats and gathers are not suitable. Use hooks and eyes instead of buttons and buttonholes press studs or frog fastenings. Insert zips by hand with a facing to prevent the pile from getting caught in the zip teeth.
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Types of fur fabrics
There are a whole range of fake fur fabrics that are available. It includes colourful, novelty fabrics with machine-made textured surfaces and deep pile fabrics which imitate the colouring and texture of natural furs and skins, such as mink, seal, fox and sheepskin, while being politically correct. These fabrics have either a knitted or woven backing and are light to wear.
Long pile You can buy long pile fur with a pile length of up to 5cm (2in) deep. It is available as imitation animal fur, or in fun fur colours such as green or yellow. You can also buy fake fur to resemble musquash, where the colouring is reversed the main fur is dark brown with longer pale grey hairs.
Medium pile The pile on medium pile fur is approximately 12mm (i4in) deep. To create realistic highlights, this fur fabric uses two tones of orange and a single brown in fairly lustrous fibres. You can also buy imitation tiger, cow and zebra prints.
Medium pile astrakhan This firmly woven fabric has the lustrous knobbly texture of real astrakhan (young lambs' fur with closely curled wool, which originates from Astrakhan in Russia). Its short to medium pile - about 6mm (1/4in) deep - is cut and heat-pressed to give it its characteristically knobbly surface.
Short pile This fabric is much less bulky than deep pile furs and may be treated more like cotton velvet. It is a firmly woven cotton fabric with a 6mm (1/4in) synthetic pile. Short pile can be use to make shirts, jackets and other garments. It also comes in a variety of animal print designs such as leopard, tiger, cheetah, pony and cow.
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| Laying out
Depending on the type of seam to be used, trim back to the cutting line for a plain seam or to the seam-line for butted seams. Lay out the pattern on a single layer of fabric, backing side up, using a 'with nap layout and with the pile running downwards to the hem. Note that some novelty fur fabrics can be cut with the pile running across or even up, so check first.
Balance any strong markings and colour shading on the main pattern pieces. Using long pins, secure the pattern to the backing of the fabric only.
If the pattern piece is designed to be cut on the fold line, pin the pattern in place and draw around the edge with tailor's chalk. Unpin the pattern, reverse it and pin it in place next to the first half.
Cutting out
Cut through the backing fabric only, using the tips of dressmakers shears, a craft knife or razor blade. To avoid cutting into the pile on the right side, gently pull the pile apart as you work. Transfer pattern markings using pins or tailor's chalk.
Interfacing
Use medium or heavyweight sew-in interfacing, depending on the weight of the garment fabric. Catch stitch the interfacing to the backing of the fur fabric to avoid having to press the pile.
Linings and facings
A lining will provide additional comfort and warmth, especially to some lightweight synthetic furs. Note that the lining fabric should have the same cleaning requirements as the fur fabric.
Use coat lining fabric for front facings, in-seam pockets or back neckline facings and hems to reduce bulk. Alternatively, when the pattern includes a separate pattern piece for the facing, lap seam lines on the front facing and the front edge of the garment and cut the facing in one with the main section. You can make a superb skin-tight skirt like this one using a short pile animal-print fur. This type of fur can take darts and should be treated in the same way as cotton velvet.
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| Stitching fur fabrics
You will need to adjust your sewing machine pressure and tension for straight and zigzag stitching. Use scraps of fur to test the stitches, decreasing pressure on the presser foot and loosening the needle tension until the stitch is balanced. You May have to change needle size.
Seams
Plain seam Use a plain seam on short pile fabrics. Pin or tack the seam stitch the seam in the direction of the pile. To finish a plain seam, press the seam open with finger. After stitching, lift out any pile on the right side that has been caught in the seam. To reduce bulk, trim off the pile from the seam allowance with scissors.
Butted seam Use a butted seam for long-haired fabrics and fabrics with knitted backings that don't fray. The butted seam is the seam used by furriers because it creates the minimum amount of bulk. If using a butted seam, use it throughout the garment - even on enclosed seams and facings.
Hems
For fancy dress costumes and fun clothes, you can simply turn up the hem and machine stitch in place, providing the fabric has a knitted backing. For coats, and any other fashion garment, use one of two methods below:
Double-stitched hem Trim the raw edges of the hem evenly and zigzag stitch to neaten. Turn up the hem and tack at the halfway point. Fold the hem down along the tacking and loosely catch stitch the hem to the backing, using heavy-duty thread. Fold the hem up and catch stitch the top edge of the hem to the backing.
Faced hem This method involves the addition of a facing made from coat lining fabric. The result is a less bulky hem than normal. Steps for stitching a faced hem are given below. Faced hem
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Preparing the hem
1.Trim the hem
Allowance 1 to 2cm (¾in). From coat lining fabric, cut a 10cm (4in) wide bias strip for the hem facing, and press in half lengthways.
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2. Stitching on the facing
With right sides together, pin the folded facing to the hem, raw edges even, and stitch, taking a 6mm (¼in) seam. Lift out the pile caught in the seam.
3. Securing the facing
Fold over the hem, pin and slipstitch the top edge of the facing to the fur backing. Smooth the finished hem with the fingers, do not press with an iron.
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Furs come in a variety of types and styles. There are long-haired furs, knobbly astrakhans, printed stripes and spots, as well as medium pile fabrics dyed in plain colours, such as teddy bear orange.
Different qualities are available for making into garments and for soft toys. As most fake furs are made from synthetic fibres, they are considerably less expensive than natural furs. They are also machine washable.
Choosing a pattern
Any garment that can be made of real fur can be made from Synthetic fur. Choose patterns that are plain with simply style lines to avoid bulking. Details such as darts, pleats and gathers are not suitable. Use hooks and eyes instead of buttons and buttonholes press studs or frog fastenings. Insert zips by hand with a facing to prevent the pile from getting caught in the zip teeth.
Types of fur fabrics
There are a whole range of fake fur fabrics that are available. It includes colourful, novelty fabrics with machine-made textured surfaces and deep pile fabrics which imitate the colouring and texture of natural furs and skins, such as mink, seal, fox and sheepskin, while being politically correct. These fabrics have either a knitted or woven backing and are light to wear.
Long pile You can buy long pile fur with a pile length of up to 5cm (2in) deep. It is available as imitation animal fur, or in fun fur colours such as green or yellow. You can also buy fake fur to resemble musquash, where the colouring is reversed the main fur is dark brown with longer pale grey hairs.
Medium pile The pile on medium pile fur is approximately 12mm (i4in) deep. To create realistic highlights, this fur fabric uses two tones of orange and a single brown in fairly lustrous fibres. You can also buy imitation tiger, cow and zebra prints.
Medium pile astrakhan This firmly woven fabric has the lustrous knobbly texture of real astrakhan (young lambs' fur with closely curled wool, which originates from Astrakhan in Russia). Its short to medium pile - about 6mm (1/4in) deep - is cut and heat-pressed to give it its characteristically knobbly surface.
Short pile This fabric is much less bulky than deep pile furs and may be treated more like cotton velvet. It is a firmly woven cotton fabric with a 6mm (1/4in) synthetic pile. Short pile can be use to make shirts, jackets and other garments. It also comes in a variety of animal print designs such as leopard, tiger, cheetah, pony and cow.
Laying out
Depending on the type of seam to be used, trim back to the cutting line for a plain seam or to the seam-line for butted seams. Lay out the pattern on a single layer of fabric, backing side up, using a 'with nap layout and with the pile running downwards to the hem. Note that some novelty fur fabrics can be cut with the pile running across or even up, so check first.
Balance any strong markings and colour shading on the main pattern pieces. Using long pins, secure the pattern to the backing of the fabric only.
If the pattern piece is designed to be cut on the fold line, pin the pattern in place and draw around the edge with tailor's chalk. Unpin the pattern, reverse it and pin it in place next to the first half.
Cutting out
Cut through the backing fabric only, using the tips of dressmakers shears, a craft knife or razor blade. To avoid cutting into the pile on the right side, gently pull the pile apart as you work. Transfer pattern markings using pins or tailor's chalk.
Interfacing
Use medium or heavyweight sew-in interfacing, depending on the weight of the garment fabric. Catch stitch the interfacing to the backing of the fur fabric to avoid having to press the pile.
Linings and facings
A lining will provide additional comfort and warmth, especially to some lightweight synthetic furs. Note that the lining fabric should have the same cleaning requirements as the fur fabric.
Use coat lining fabric for front facings, in-seam pockets or back neckline facings and hems to reduce bulk. Alternatively, when the pattern includes a separate pattern piece for the facing, lap seam lines on the front facing and the front edge of the garment and cut the facing in one with the main section. You can make a superb skin-tight skirt like this one using a short pile animal-print fur. This type of fur can take darts and should be treated in the same way as cotton velvet.
Stitching fur fabrics
You will need to adjust your sewing machine pressure and tension for straight and zigzag stitching. Use scraps of fur to test the stitches, decreasing pressure on the presser foot and loosening the needle tension until the stitch is balanced. You May have to change needle size.
Seams
Plain seam Use a plain seam on short pile fabrics. Pin or tack the seam stitch the seam in the direction of the pile. To finish a plain seam, press the seam open with finger. After stitching, lift out any pile on the right side that has been caught in the seam. To reduce bulk, trim off the pile from the seam allowance with scissors.
Butted seam Use a butted seam for long-haired fabrics and fabrics with knitted backings that don't fray. The butted seam is the seam used by furriers because it creates the minimum amount of bulk. If using a butted seam, use it throughout the garment - even on enclosed seams and facings.
Hems
For fancy dress costumes and fun clothes, you can simply turn up the hem and machine stitch in place, providing the fabric has a knitted backing. For coats, and any other fashion garment, use one of two methods below:
Double-stitched hem Trim the raw edges of the hem evenly and zigzag stitch to neaten. Turn up the hem and tack at the halfway point. Fold the hem down along the tacking and loosely catch stitch the hem to the backing, using heavy-duty thread. Fold the hem up and catch stitch the top edge of the hem to the backing.
Faced hem This method involves the addition of a facing made from coat lining fabric. The result is a less bulky hem than normal. Steps for stitching a faced hem are given below. Faced hem
Preparing the hem
1.Trim the hem
Allowance 1 to 2cm (¾in). From coat lining fabric, cut a 10cm (4in) wide bias strip for the hem facing, and press in half lengthways.
2. Stitching on the facing
With right sides together, pin the folded facing to the hem, raw edges even, and stitch, taking a 6mm (¼in) seam. Lift out the pile caught in the seam.
3. Securing the facing
Fold over the hem, pin and slipstitch the top edge of the facing to the fur backing. Smooth the finished hem with the fingers, do not press with an iron.
From http://www.sewingtechnology.net/ |
